The sight of Taipei’s buildings - compressed upon one another and held together by cables and wires like so many stacked Bekins boxes, bejeweled in equal proportions by cold fluorescent neon and characters from a 5,000 year old language - would have likely seemed more startling to me had I not already formed such a precise picture of the city from the fragmented jigsaw pieces of 20-year old memories and scenes from assorted art films. Sitting in the taxi’s front passenger seat as we drove into the city on a playfully damp Thursday night, my head felt as if it were connected to a particularly promiscuous swivel, my eyes repeatedly panning left to right, right to left, up and down in order to take in the sight of this city I’ve come to fancy - quite irrationally - through the wholly vicarious avenues of cinema and second hand stories.
My weird affinity with this city that, until tonight, I hadn’t stepped foot in since I was a slightly buck toothed, blue blazer sporting rug rat has less to do, I think, with tangible peculiarities than romantic imaginings. Sure I have people of Taiwanese origin firmly integrated into my life’s narrative and yes, my favorite movie of the past ten years was a sprawling, multi-generational epic about a Taiwanese family; but surely those can’t be the only reasons right?
Looking out of the corner window of this thoroughly modern hotel room - marble floors, a medium density pillow top mattress and in-room wifi access being, afterall, the key indicators of modernity in accomodation ammenities - with the sight of the Taipei 101 skyscraper towering well past my viewpoint over the city’s lesser giants, office lights aglow, cabs and mopeds navigating around one another in clusters like so many magnetic balls, it suddenly hits me like a 7-10 split. I realize just what it is about Taipei that makes me feel so welcome... so at home. It is, at the risk of sounding indiscriminate, what I adore so much about and makes me feel equally at home in Hong Kong, Manhattan and San Francisco. City life. That which does not cease at midnight. The overwhelming, undeniable and ever-constant presence of the one thing I find most inspiring: possibility. Only now, instead of watching it on a movie screen or hearing about it from friends and loved ones, it is before me. Now, I stand at its very center; the cross section of what I know and what I’ve yet to learn.
Ken Cheng
Taipei, Taiwan
